Day 43. Muscatine

74 miles 2,795 feet

I left the campground early after a fitful night. About 12:30 am vehicles began returning to the campground playing music and having fun; great, but tents aren't sound proof unfortunately. That is all part of the experience.

I arose early and went to the Cascade breakfast place that opens at 7. The coffee klatch men were interested in my trip, and told me a little about their lives. One was a timber harvester, who finds timber stands—often black walnut—that he cuts down and sells. I told him what a fan I am of black walnut and that I made a side table I love out of it in Seattle. Another earned his living cutting grass. I asked if they were in agriculture and one man pointed out that is an uncommon occupation in Iowa because it is so industrialized. I checked and he is correct. A small proportion of people in Iowa are farmers.

Some of the small Iowa towns seem to be on the ropes. Beautiful old buildings are closed up, and restaurants are hard to find. Most towns have a gas station with an attached convenience store that sells sandwiches—this serves for my lunch place many days because there is no alternative.

Today was a significant milestone in my trip. Tomorrow I resume heading east! Since July 9—13 days ago—I've been heading generally south to reach the bottom of Lake Michigan so I can pass east south of Chicago. But now, at Muscatine, I transition to the last of the 4 sections I use to define this trip.

  1. Start until top of western passes (Logan Pass)
  2. East from Logan to Moorhead MN when I turned south
  3. South to Muscatine IA when I resume heading east
  4. East (northeast) to Maine.

So now, and for the next 1,722 miles, I'll head generally east. I have to admit, I'm not sorry to leave hilly Iowa behind. It's hard work!

Along the way I see signs next to corn fields such as Pioneer P 0589. What does that mean? Pioneer is a very big company (part of an even bigger company called Corteva) that produces hybrid and genetically modified seeds intended to increase yield for farmers. P 0589 is a variety of corn seed, the characteristics of which are described here. This is a far cry from the small Iowa farms of yore, but that is the state of agriculture around here today. There are other signs, from other companies, that presumably create hybrids or genetically modified seeds that are higher in yield and more resistant to risks.

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My campsite in Cascade, IA.

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A first for me: This man drove his lawn mower to the convenience store.

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Small towns seem to be on the ropes.

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Hill after hill. Tiring!

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Gas station/convenience store/restaurant combination is common in small towns. Restaurants are often closed.

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