Day 12. Rocky Gorge Campground
61.3 miles 2,766 feet
I have quite a bit of gear. Not as much as some, but on departure my 2 panniers and handlebar bag weighed 40 lbs. My bike weighs 36 lbs without water and 40 with full large water bottles. The reason for all of this is that I expected to camp when my day ended without a nearby motel. Today is an example, and tomorrow likely too. It is a long way from Libby, Montana to Columbia Falls near Kalispell, and the route follows a beautiful lake without many motels. However today at about 60 miles from Troy there was a USFS campground and that's where I stayed. I was a little worried the campground would be full as motels and lakeside resorts often are. But when I arrived at this strikingly beautiful forested lakeside campground I had my pick of sites. So of course I picked the best one, right above the lake on a bluff, with an osprey calling from the tree near the picnic table. Tomorrow I'll continue along the lake and pass through a town—Eureka—but that is not a full day's ride so I'll continue. The only motel, a resort, that lands in my 50-70 mile range from today's camp is all booked since it will be a Friday night.
Camping in grizzly country means taking precautions that we know from our year in Alaska. No food, toothpaste, or anything else that is fragrant in the campsite. I bundled all that in to my panniers and put them in the campground bear locker. You have to be very aware not to slip up, such as forgetting the lip balm in the back pocket of your biking jersey or the Clif Bar in the handlebar bag. Toothbrushing in the bathroom, not near the campsite. All of these things are described the mandatory Food Storage Order as attractants.. After some thought I bought a can of bear spray both for bear protection but also for chasing dogs. (I've already had 4 near misses.) I think about all of this since grizzlies will be reintroduced into the North Cascades so our hiking style will change.
Today's ride was up and down, through very pretty terrain, and it was quite warm. Libby wasn't all I hoped for. I did find a native American woman selling fry bread and Indian tacos for lunch which was great. Since I knew I was going to be camping I wanted some freeze dried dinners that are simple to prepare. In Google maps I entered "backpacking equipment" and "outdoor equipment" and both pointed to an outdoor store near where I had lunch. I biked over and discovered it was definitely not REI. An entire side of the store is covered with a counter and racks displaying guns of all types. As I browsed I overheard the woman and the counter explain how to get a kit to modify a customer's AR (an assault rifle). I felt a little awkward asking for freeze dried food with all the firepower around but the man who helped me from the gun counter took me to a great selection. He was very helpful. So things are very different but people seem nice.
I'm writing this on the picnic table as the sun sets and now that it has, I'll close. I'm tired!
I have quite a bit of gear. Not as much as some, but on departure my 2 panniers and handlebar bag weighed 40 lbs. My bike weighs 36 lbs without water and 40 with full large water bottles. The reason for all of this is that I expected to camp when my day ended without a nearby motel. Today is an example, and tomorrow likely too. It is a long way from Libby, Montana to Columbia Falls near Kalispell, and the route follows a beautiful lake without many motels. However today at about 60 miles from Troy there was a USFS campground and that's where I stayed. I was a little worried the campground would be full as motels and lakeside resorts often are. But when I arrived at this strikingly beautiful forested lakeside campground I had my pick of sites. So of course I picked the best one, right above the lake on a bluff, with an osprey calling from the tree near the picnic table. Tomorrow I'll continue along the lake and pass through a town—Eureka—but that is not a full day's ride so I'll continue. The only motel, a resort, that lands in my 50-70 mile range from today's camp is all booked since it will be a Friday night.
Camping in grizzly country means taking precautions that we know from our year in Alaska. No food, toothpaste, or anything else that is fragrant in the campsite. I bundled all that in to my panniers and put them in the campground bear locker. You have to be very aware not to slip up, such as forgetting the lip balm in the back pocket of your biking jersey or the Clif Bar in the handlebar bag. Toothbrushing in the bathroom, not near the campsite. All of these things are described the mandatory Food Storage Order as attractants.. After some thought I bought a can of bear spray both for bear protection but also for chasing dogs. (I've already had 4 near misses.) I think about all of this since grizzlies will be reintroduced into the North Cascades so our hiking style will change.
Today's ride was up and down, through very pretty terrain, and it was quite warm. Libby wasn't all I hoped for. I did find a native American woman selling fry bread and Indian tacos for lunch which was great. Since I knew I was going to be camping I wanted some freeze dried dinners that are simple to prepare. In Google maps I entered "backpacking equipment" and "outdoor equipment" and both pointed to an outdoor store near where I had lunch. I biked over and discovered it was definitely not REI. An entire side of the store is covered with a counter and racks displaying guns of all types. As I browsed I overheard the woman and the counter explain how to get a kit to modify a customer's AR (an assault rifle). I felt a little awkward asking for freeze dried food with all the firepower around but the man who helped me from the gun counter took me to a great selection. He was very helpful. So things are very different but people seem nice.
I'm writing this on the picnic table as the sun sets and now that it has, I'll close. I'm tired!
Indian taco lunch in Libby. See mural at right
Poignant mural. See if you can make out what it says above the lower woman's hands, above the words Not even once.
Arriving in my incredible campsite
